• Automotive Performance Diy's

    Automotive Performance Diy's

    Performance Diy is an automotive blog covering diy jobs from simple repairs,modifications to full restomod/restorations.If its on wheels its on Performance Diy

    Wednesday, 11 January 2012

    Supercharger install (Civic si)

    Found this great detailed diy supercharger install .Enjoy :) :
    This DIY is intended to be a great supplement to the CTe instructions. This is all at your own risk and if for some reason something doesn't work out for you as it did me, i am not responsible
    Instruction time :
    step 1. remove your battery completely. ( this is for extra space and it makes things easier.
    step 2. remove your ecu, affix your stage 2 reflash form directly to your ecu case and mail to hondata. package your ecu well with as much padding as you can find. its delicate.
    step 3. remove the fuel rail cover ( carbon fiber thing) then bleed pressure off the fuel rail by detaching it on the right hand side and put a rag underneath it when you do so in case some fuel spills.
    step 4. remove the studs that hold the fuel rail spacer ( carbon fiber thing) to the rail so you can remove the rail.
    step 5. remove the fuel rail, you can unclip the electronics from the rail with the 3 clips then unplug your injectors and set loose electronics aside on or near your rag still in the engine bay.
    step 6. completely remove the rail and bring it to your work bench.
    step 7. remove the factory fuel injectors and the aluminum caps.
    step 8. (optional) lightly cover the injector O rings with engine oil.. i did not do this as the ct injectors are the same as stock and they fit in no problem.
    step 9. put the alumin caps back on the new ct modified injectors and reinstall into the rail.
    step 10. reinstall the fuel rail onto the manifold being careful to line up the holes in the aluminum injector caps with the holes in the manifold.
    step 11. put a larger breaker bar on your crank pulley from underneath your car and while having full belt tension on have someone just hold that breaker bar underneath while you use a socket to loosen the 4 bolts on the pulley.
    step 12. once the bolts are loose i loosened the bolts on the ct tension-er set up and loosened the Allen bolt to relieve some belt tension, then with a large wrench use the factory tensioner to relieve the rest of your belt tension and remove the belt from your SC pulley and set aside.
    step 13. install the new pulley with shims outside onto your supercharger shaft, hand thread your bolts into place as much as you can and then tighten as much as you can with a wrench, you wont be able to fully torque them because nothing is holding the pulley.
    step 14. install the belt back over the new pulley by utilizing the factory tensioner again and then in reverse order tighten all the bolts on the ct tensioner then use the allen bolt to fine tune and increase belt tension to desired tension.
    step 15. as before put a larger breaker bar on the crank pulley and have someone hold it from underneath while you torque the 4 pulley bolts to 16 foot pounds. ( i used red loctite on all 4 of these bolts ) you may or may not wish to do so.
    step 16. optional.. but i did it.. now that you have the 4 pulley bolts torqued to spec, loosen the ct tensioner set up again and the allen screw to release tension on the pulley.
    step 16 cont.... now that tension is removed. simply re tighten the ct tensioner bolts and the allen until you get proper belt tension.

    the reason i did this was to get proper tension on the pulley after it was properly torqued just in case it was not at the right angle or what have you before when we tightend it just to get the pulley bolts torqued. i did this just as a peace of mind.

    step 17. enjoy several beers, and wait for you ecu.
    step 18. when ecu arrives install that and the battery in reverse order
    step 19.. starting the car,... turn the key to the on position to prime the fuel pump and then turn the key all the way off. repeat 3 times to pressurize the rail since it is now empty of fuel from our install.
    step 20. start the car, it may take a few turns to crank, this is normal as not all the fuel got back in the rail when we primed it.
    step 21. allow your car to idle for 20 minutes and then shut off the car.
    step 22. check your fuel rail for leaks and if all is well reinstall your CF fuel rail cover and check your belt tension again.
    step 23. if all checks out you are now ready to drive your car.

    step 24. enjoy your 9psi street demo

    all the tools i used


    ECU removed

    removal of top of bumper to enable the removal of front cross member. bike allen tool ftw!

    removal of splash guard


    emptying the coolant

    all out, time to close the spout

    taking off IM cover

    taking off intake arm. these are the two bolts you need to loosen as well as taking the hoses off

    battery is taken out

    taking brackets and sensors off TB and IM


    removing hoses off IM and TB. the one on the TB can be left on until the TB comes off cause it's can be a little tough. easiest for any of the hoses was to pry a small flat head in there to release the seal.

    removing TB coolant hoses

    removal of cover off fuel rail connection

    disconnecting fuel line. and there is some fuel that comes out of here

    removing fuel rail. again this will leak fuel too

    now remove the TB

    to remove the IM i found it VERY helpful to free up the hard coolant line by take these two bolts out


    then to remove the IM it worked perfect if you twisted it like so as you were pulling it out. the studs are what made it tough. if you can get those out before taking the IM off, it would be MUCH easier.

    you are then to remove the pulley assembly. when you do that, be careful of this nut in the back of the tensioner. after i got it out i hot glued it in as it can be very difficult to thread the bolt if it is lose. this was a BIG HELP!!!!!

    here is the idler plate installed on the tensioner. i would suggest NOT installing the pulley setup until the manifold is TQ'd on or else it is VERY difficult to TQ the top left manifold bolt.

    now it's time to relocate the mounting of the wire harness under the manifold

    here is a lil charger sexiness to hold you over

    here is the manifold support bracket loosely mounted

    before mounting the manifold make sure to install the IABT valve. at this time also install the map sensor. to hook up the coolant line, i highly suggest using a screw type hose clamp to ensure proper seal as it is a pain to install it AFTER the entire system is installed and you find you have a leak.... trust me!
    also install new hoses. this is the new PCV hose

    new brake booster hose

    loctite for the mani bolts

    mani in place with p2r img ready for the above bolts

    Tq time for the mani. this is the bolt you cannot reach with the pulleys installed.

    NOW be VERY careful when installing the support bracket as i barely tightened it at all and all the threads released onto the bolt as seen here with no more threads left in the mani.


    was a simple solve with a tap. then i put a little honda bond on the new bolt as i have head of many ppl having leaks here and i did not want to tighten it down hard again

    next in the instructions it says to install the a/c spacer which i did NOT do and have had no issues even after 300+miles of driving. this is up to you. no pic but there is at least 1/3 of an inch if not more.

    next i would suggest installing the tensioner assembly and tq'ing it all down.(again this is done after the mani is tq'd down which i learned after taking these pics). do not install the adjuster plate yet so you can get the charger in place under the a/c line.



    Now the exciting part.... time to mount the charger. place all 6 bolts in their holes on the charger and lower it onto the mani. since i did not undo my a/c line you need to undo the 10mm bolt to loosen the line a little so the charger pulley will fit underneath. it will also help if you have a second set of hands.

    accessing the lower bolts is made easy by lifting the front cross member

    My inlet manifold was already installed as this kit was used so i skipped that step. now you can install the adjuster plate. make sure you install the adjuster lug

    with the adjuster plate installed you can now install the belt. here is where you put a wrench that you can get some leverage with. i wrapped the belt around everything except the tensioner pulley and moved that pulley till it could slide on. worked like a charm

    now you will also adjust the belt tension. again bike allen tool ftw! then CTe instructions are great with the details here.

    here is a pic a couple days into it showing my mess

    now taking off the cowl

    then the steel panel underneath

    now you can access the spark plug cover to take off

    unbolt the coils

    remove the coils to access the spark plugs

    take out old spark plugs and install new ones

    tq down the coils

    found a couple helpers that are eager for me to finish.


    installing fuel rail spacers and fuel rail. make sure to install bushings and push the injectors all the way in. reconnect the appropriate lines.

    modify the harness as per directions to release the map plug and ground. here is the new place for the ground.

    remove the tb studs from the IM and install in charger inlet manifold.

    install the TB onto the charger

    Now is when you hook up all previous hoses. i bypassed the TB coolant with just creating a loop with the hose that was already there. i cut maybe an inch off as i did not like the corner it was making. i also used the leftover hose to close off the parts on the TB that were previously used to the coolant lines.
    Now time to find the FPR. first remove the back seats. there is one bolt for the bottom cushion.

    then two clips on either side in the front

    now unbolt the 60 fold down side


    unclip trunk carpet

    unbolt support bar

    unbolt access panel

    release fuel lines. fuel will come out so you might want to have a towel ready.

    now take a hammer and large flat head and spin the retaining cap counter-clockwise to unscrew. this was fairly easy to get off but a HUGE pain to get back on.

    now follow directions and slowly tip the assembly forward as the thing on the long wire is the sending unit

    undo these clips to get to the fpr

    there she is on the bottom. just three more little clips to undo to get it out

    fpr in crushing tool. see the gap

    in the vice with a strap to protect it from the teeth

    fpr crushed in vice. no more gap

    properly crushed, no more gap

    now reinstall that exact opposite of removal. refill radiator and reinstall ecu, intake, and any other sensors that have not been at this point. double check all you connections and as you are filling the fluid keep an eye out for leaks. follow the directions for startup. i left my car on jack for this and did not install the splash over till after it was running fine and my coolant leak was fixed. reinstall everything and enjoy your new power.... hope this helps....
    yea she is dirty but my parents live on a dirt road so cleaning will come.

    pretty sunset!

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