• Automotive Performance Diy's

    Automotive Performance Diy's

    Performance Diy is an automotive blog covering diy jobs from simple repairs,modifications to full restomod/restorations.If its on wheels its on Performance Diy

    Thursday, 15 December 2011

    Ground wiring DIY

    In this tutorial, I will be instructing you on how to make your own ground wire kit, as well as install it.

    Before I go onto the tutorial, I would like explain the benefits of a ground wire kit. First, do not expect substantial horsepower gains. What you can expect is a smoother idle and better throttle response. Some people notice brighter headlights and cleaner audio. Some even say the ground wires help prevent static shock when getting out of the car.

    Also, I checked the voltage differences at the planned ground points using a recently calibrated Fluke 87 multimeter. Here is a table of the before/after voltage differences with the ground wires made in this tutorial:

    Now, onto the tutorial.

    Planning the grounds
    The ground wire system we will be making, dubbed the "Mikochu Über Ground Wire System," consists of 4 wires connecting 5 points.

    Body (A) > Head (B) > Coil Pack (C) > Battery Negative (D) > Body (E)

    You can choose your own ground points, but you are on your own with that. I cannot be held responsible for what you do to your car. Choose wisely and at your own risk. If you decide to choose your own ground points, get some string and measure the points. Measure the strings to figure out how much wire you need. Also, you can use a different gauge wire. Most aftermarket kits are 4-gauge, but I think that is overkill. My hand quivered when I saw the 4 gauge wire.

    For the "Mikochu Über Ground Wire System," you will need:
    - Socket wrench (10mm socket)
    - Wire cutters/crimper/scissors/pliers
    - 7' of-8 gauge speaker wire (81" for the kit, 3" left over)
    - 10 pieces of 8-gauge ring connectors (5/16" hole)
    - About 1' of heatshrink tubing that will fit over the crimped ring connector and wire
    - A lighter (for the heatshrink)

    Making the ground wires
    1. Cut the wire into the correct lengths.

    These are the lengths for the "Mikochu Über Ground Wire System"
    (Click the link to see the image)
    15" for the Body (A) to Head (B)
    22" for Head (B) to Coil Pack (C)
    27" for Coil Pack (C) to Battery Negative (D)
    17" for Battery Negative (D) to Body (E)
    81" total with 3" to spare with 7' of wire

    2. Once the wires are cut, use a wire stripper (or pair of scissors) to strip about 1/2" of the insulation to accommodate the ring connector. Try not to cut the wires themselves. If a few strands are cut, it's okay. However, if half the strands are cut, redo it. There should be enough slack in the wire for a couple (2!) mess-ups. Twist the bare wire to prevent fraying. Repeat this step for the other side of the wire.

    3. Once the insulation is stripped, slide 2 pieces of heatshrink onto the wire. The size of the heatshrink should be long enough to cover (and overlap a little) the crimpable area of the ring connector. With the heatshrink out of the way, slide the ring connector onto the wire.

    4. Using a wire crimper (or stripper/pliers), crimp the bottom portion of the ring connector, and then follow through until the whole ring connector is crimped. Make sure the two pieces of heatshrink are still on the wire, and then repeat this step for the other side of the wire. Double-check the crimps to make sure they are tight. Do not pull on the ring connectors. Just make sure the crimps are tight by re-crimping them. Slide the heatshrink onto the crimped area of the ring connector. Make sure the hole is not covered, and then use the lighter to activate the heatshrink.

    5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 until all four wires are done. Once all of them are done, you should have a kit that looks somewhat like this:

    With the kit made, onto the installation!

    "Mikochu Über Ground Wire System" Installation
    To make things less complicated, the wires will be named:
    Wire 1 - 15" Body (A) to Head (B)
    Wire 2 - 22" Head (B) to Coil Pack (C)
    Wire 3 - 27" Coil Pack (C) to Battery Negative (D)
    Wire 4 - 17" Battery Negative (D) to Body (E)

    1. With your 10mm socket wrench, unbolt the nuts on the valve cover. Remove the valve cover.

    2. Now we can start on the installation of the wires. We are going to start on the left side. Unscrew the bolt on the bracket that holds the A/C line. Put the bolt through one ring connector on Wire 1, then screw it back in.

    3. Next, weave Wire 1 around to get to the bolt on the corner of the engine. Unscrew the bolt on the corner of engine. Put the bolt through both the end of Wire 1 and the beginning of Wire 2. Screw the engine bolt back in.

    4. Weave Wire 2 through the wire loom and such, then unscrew the last coil bolt and put the end of the Wire 2 and the beginning of Wire 3. Screw the coil bolt back on.

    5. Again, weave Wire 3 through the wire loom and intake. Unscrew the nut off the negative lead on the battery. Try not to take the lead off since it may reset your ECU, clock, radio, etc. Put the end of Wire 3 and the beginning of Wire 4 onto the lead's bolt and screw the nut back on.

    6. Unscrew the bolt on the body that has the throttle cable bracket on it. Put the end of Wire 4 closest to the body. Put the bracket back on, then screw the bolt back in.

    7. The installation is almost done. Double-check the bolts and make sure they are tight. Hold the socket wrench close to the center to prevent overtightening.

    8. Once all of the bolts are double-checked, put the valve cover back on and screw the nuts back in. Start the car, cross your fingers, and hope it doesn't throw a "Check Engine" light. Just kidding, as long as you follow the steps, you should be fine.

    1 comment:

    1. I have just installed iStripper, and now I can watch the hottest virtual strippers on my taskbar.


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